Good quality exterior render paint products contain fungicides to protect them against the weather. Due to this we do not recommend them for use inside.
Before you paint over stained wood, we would recommend that you abrade the surface to remove any traces of sheen. You can then paint over the top using a Satinwood, Eggshell or Gloss finish.
Yes, but only when the wall has been thoroughly abraded. Unless you are fully prepared to sand the surface to remove all traces of sheen, we would not recommend that you attempt it. Failure to sand thoroughly will result in your paint cracking and a poor finish.
The key difference is the consistency of the paint. Taking Dulux as an example, the Retail paints are ready for use straight from the can. Many professional decorators, however, like to thin their paint before use and so Dulux Trade paints have a slightly different formulation. The trade paint does cover better without being thinned. However, both Dulux Trade and Retail paints are manufactured to the same high specification.
There are many paints available from various manufactures to choose from. We recommend, based on experience Dulux Bathrrom + Soft Sheen as it’s an exceptionally tough moisture & steam resistant paint. Independent laboratory testing has shown that the MouldTec formulation protects the paint against mould for up to 5 years.
As the surface is flexible and smooth we would not recommend painting the furniture.
Yes we recommend the use of Hammerite paint.
Yes but the surface must be primed first prior to applying the finishing coats.
We would recommend using Dulux Tile Paint as this does not require a primer or undercoat. Painting old tiles cantransform your tiles quickly and will stay looking good, even in areas of high condensation. It is 10 times tougher and 10 times more shower resistant than conventional satin paint which means it won't peel off in areas continually soaked with water e.g. shower enclosures
Yes, various manufacture offer paints to achieve desired results. However, due to our direct relationship with a kitchen manufacture it would be wise to request a quotation from us as we’re able to offer anything from doors to whole kitchens at trade prices. Balance this against the cost of paint and the labour and you’ll be surprised.
This is a very important question. Because young children are likely to suck and chew their toys/cots, toy and cot manufacturers are required to use paints whose composition complies with the European Toy Standard EN71, Part III 1988 or BS5665 Part III 1989 which is the British Standard set for toys safety. A requirement of both these Standards is for paint manufacturers to test every batch to ensure that they are free from or do not contain more than specified levels of certain heavy metals such as lead, cadmium, mercury and arsenic. Test certificates must be made available on request detailing the analytical results. We strongly recommend you contact the items manufacture to seek advice on the paint manufacture.
Solvent-based products typically contain high levels of Volatile Organic Compound’s (VOC’s) and were traditionally for use on wood and metal surfaces, giving a glossy finish but associated with longer drying times and a strong smell. Water-based products have typically low levels of VOC’s and have come along way over recent years, with many companies offering a water-based paint equivalent to a solvent-based option. The benefits of a water-based product includes quicker drying times, less smell, and easier cleaning up with brushes and rollers being able to be rinsed with water rather than white spirit, making the whole decorating process more environmentally friendly. Washing solvent-based paint from brushes required the use of white spirit or solvent-based brush cleaners, which in themselves release VOCs when used, and are difficult to dispose of because of their hazardous nature. Therefore, using water-based paints, where brushes can be washed in soapy water, can further reduce the environmental impact of decorating.
When selecting a brush it is important to consider the following areas: type of bristle; job to be completed & coating to be applied. There are 2 types of bristle: synthetic and natural. Synthetic bristles are very hard wearing, lasting up to 5 times as long as natural bristle brushes. As synthetic bristles do not absorb large amounts of water and swell up they do not cause tramlines to appear in the paint. Their structure produces a fine finish on all water-based paints. Natural bristle has a structure that allows it to take and hold paint within the brush. In addition, the split ends of bristle brushes help to produce a fine finish with traditional solvent paints. However, they do not perform well with water-based paints. Brushes come in many sizes. As a rule of thumb, the larger the area you are painting, the larger the brush that you should use. For walls a 2" or 3" brush is required for cutting in, whilst a 1" or 2" brush will give you more flexibility when painting doors, skirting boards & architraves.
Rollers are ideal for painting large areas, particularly ceilings. They are quick and easy to use. There are several types of roller to suit different paint jobs: foam, mohair or sheepskin, available in short, medium and long-pile. Your choice of roller really depends upon the sort of paint you are using. A short-pile mohair roller is suitable for applying silk emulsion. A medium-pile sheepskin roller is ideal for applying matt emulsion. Foam rollers are not recommended for normal emulsion paints as their spongy texture creates air bubbles in the paint film which can then burst, leaving a crated, orange peel effect
Generally you should work top down. The following is a typical sequence:
- Ceiling - Apply two full coats.
- Walls - Apply two full coats of your chosen paint, working away from natural light.
- Doors & skirting boards - Start with the windows to give them a full day to dry before closing them in the evening. Next paint the door & doorframe followed by the skirting.
Having removed wallpaper by scraping, the surface must be thoroughly washed down to remove all old paste and size. While the surface is still damp is the best time to fill all holes before painting. Polycell Polyfilla is the ideal solution for small holes as it is dry in as little as 15 minutes. However, if the area is larger, it may need plastering or you may consider using Polycell smoothover for cracked & damaged walls. There’s a host of solutions that can be considered & we’ll happily provide any advice you need. Once the wall is rubbed down the wall can be painted with emulsion.
Before painting a radiator it is important to turn it off and allow it to cool down. Rub the surface down with 'wet and dry' abrasive paper and warm water with a little detergent added. Rinse, clean and dry. Any bare areas should be primed with Metal Primer. This will provide protection from rust and provide excellent adhesion for subsequent coats. You can then paint the radiator with solvent-based paints. These paints all come in a wide range of colours allowing you to paint the radiator in a matching colour to the walls therefore helping to disguise it. Once painted you should allow the paint to fully dry before turning the radiator on again. When you do so for the first time you may experience a paint smell - this is normal and will quickly disappear.
Manufactures have various paints and products for sealing new plaster. An important factor you must not rush the drying process. As a guide a plaster Skim will take approximately 2 - 3 weeks to dry, whereas a full plaster will take around 6 months to dry.
Cleaning paints out of brushes and rollers uses substantial amount of water or solvent. If you need to reuse the brush/roller again for the same job then an alternative to washing them is to place them in an airtight plastic bag, applying masking tape around the handle to keep the air out. This will keep the equipment supple over-night. Washing solvent-based paint from brushes required the use of white spirit or solvent-based brush cleaners, which in themselves release VOCs when used, and are more difficult to dispose of because of their hazardous nature. Therefore, choosing water-based paints, where brushes can be washed in soapy water, can further reduce the environmental impact of decorating. Cleaning water based paint. Then, with water-based paints, wash brushes with clean water or a solution of warm water and detergent. Cleaning solvent based paint. For solvent-based paints, clean with a specialist brush cleaner. These are more efficient than white spirit resulting in less solvent emissions. Always use a container only slightly larger than the brush itself as this helps to minimise solvent usage. The container should also have a tightly fitting lid to enable dirty solvents to settle. The clean solvent can then be poured back into the original bottle for re-use and the sediment left to dry before disposal. Don't pour paint or white spirit down the drain as the chemicals they contain can disperse and contaminate the water supply.
The cause may be due to a number of factors including:
- Moisture trapped beneath the surface of the paint.
- If the paint is applied over a powdery or crumbly surface.
- Surface contamination such as dirt, oil, and grease.
- Polish residues on the surface, which impair the adhesion of the paint.
- Excessive movement of the substrate, such as joints, imposing stress on the paint film which can result in cracking which in turn lets in moisture, ultimately resulting in a flaking paint film.
- Resins present in knots causing light coloured paints to discolour or even flake. Resin bleed and flaking is a common problem where dark colours are used on south facing elevations. This is because dark colours absorb more heat than light colours.
This is usually caused by contamination of the underlying surface by soluble stains. Putting it right It is important to seal the original stain, we recommend applying a coat of Polycell Stain Stop prior to re-decorating.
This is caused by painting over contaminated surfaces such as wax, oil or polish. Basically the paint cannot adhere to the surface and draws away leaving unpainted areas. This can also be caused by contamination on the brush. Putting it right Allow the surface to dry and then rub down using 'wet and dry' abrasive paper and a solution of warm water and detergent. Once rinsed and dried the area can be repainted.
Make sure that all filled areas are rubbed down smooth and level. You will need to prime the filler before painting to prevent subsequent coats being absorbed more rapidly than on other areas. You can paint a coat of emulsion thinned 10-20% with clean water. Once this is dried you can apply a full coat of emulsion.
Using the wrong type of roller can cause foaming of a paint film. Sponge or foam rollers should be avoided with water-based paints. Long pile rollers must be wetted out properly. Foaming happens when air gets into the wet paint film to create air bubbles. When these bubbles burst craters are left on the film surface. Sometimes these craters dry to give an even film. Putting it right You will need to rub down using 'wet and dry' abrasive paper. The surface should then be rinsed and allowed to dry before repainting. If this is impractical due to the size of area affected the area could be horizontally lined with lining paper and then repainted.
The most likely cause of mud cracking is applying a thick, heavy, un-thinned coat of paint to a textured or embossed surface such as blown vinyl wallpapers or pebbledash. This is especially true if the paint was applied by brush. Cracking can also occur when Matt paint is applied over Silk if the sheen is not removed from the silk coating. Putting it right One or two thinned coats of paints may fill in the cracks. For internal walls, a soft sheen paint is the most suitable product to use. If the affected area is over wallpaper, the best way to solve the problem is to remove the paper and start again.
This is usually caused by weathering of the paint or could be evidence of salts coming out of the surface. Putting it right The affected area should be brushed down with a stiff bristle brush to remove as much powdery material as possible before applying a coat of exterior stabilising primer. If the powder is due to salts/efflorescence then the surface should be wiped with a dry cloth to exhaust the salts before coating with an Alkali Resisting primer to eliminate staining. It can then be re-painted in your chosen finish.
This is a common occurrence in new houses and is often the result of plaster drying out or movement of the building. Putting it right Cracks should be cut out and all dust and debris removed. The cracks should then be filled using appropriate filler. This can then be painted with your chosen finish.
Moisture is an essential element for the growth of moulds. Putting it right Affected areas should be treated with a Multi-Surface Fungicidal Wash. Once rinsed and allowed to dry it can be over coated with your chosen masonry Paint.
Shrivelling & wrinkling of new paintwork occurs when the surface of the paint dries too quickly, therefore forming a skin before the paint underneath could dry. It is likely to be worse if a thick coat of paint is applied, especially to horizontal surfaces. It can also occur if a second coat is applied before the first one has dried. Putting it right Allow the paint to dry and harden. This may take several days, or weeks, depending on the drying conditions. When dry, rub the surface down using 'wet and dry' abrasive paper, and clean with warm water with a little detergent added. Rinse the surface with clean water and allow to dry before repainting. If you are unable to wait for it to dry it would be best to scrape off the tacky paint taking it back to a sound, dry surface.